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Everest, Mount, mountain peak in the Himalayas
of southern Asia, considered the highest mountain in the world.
Mount Everest is situated at the edge of the
Tibetan Plateau (Qing Zang Gaoyuan), on the border
between Nepal and Tibet.
The mountain was named for Sir George Everest, a British military engineer
who served as surveyor general of India from 1829 to 1843, during which time the
peak was surveyed. Everest was the first person to record the location and
height of the mountain, then known as Peak XV. Most Nepali people refer to the
mountain as Sagarmatha, meaning "Forehead in the Sky." Speakers of Tibetan
languages, including the Sherpa people of northern Nepal, refer to the mountain
as Chomolungma, Tibetan for "Goddess Mother of the World."
In 1954, after various figures had been rejected, the height of Mount
Everest was determined as 8848 m (29,028 ft). The mountain's actual height, and
the claim that Everest is the highest mountain in the world, have been disputed.
But additional surveys completed in the early 1990s continued to support
evidence that Everest is the highest mountain in the world. In fact, the
mountain is rising a few millimeters each year due to geological forces. Global
Positioning Technology (GPS) has been installed on Mount Everest for the purpose
of detecting slight rates of geological uplift.
Geological Formation
Mount Everest, like the rest of the Himalayas, rose from the floor of the
ancient Tethys Sea. The range was created when the Eurasian continental plate
collided with the Indian subcontinental plate about 30 to 50 million years ago.
Eventually the marine limestone was forced upward to become the characteristic
yellow band on the top of Mount Everest. Beneath the shallow marine rock lies
the highly metamorphosed black gneiss (foliated, or layered, rock) of the
Precambrian era, a remnant of the original continental plates that collided and
forced up the Himalayas.
Mount Everest is covered with huge glaciers that descend from the main peak
and its nearby satellite peaks. The mountain itself is a pyramid-shaped horn,
sculpted by the erosive power of the glacial ice into three massive faces and
three major ridges, which soar to the summit from the north, south, and west and
separate the glaciers. From the south side of the mountain, in a clockwise
direction, the main glaciers are the Khumbu glacier, which flows northeast
before turning southwest; the West Rongbuk glacier in the northwest; the Rongbuk
glacier in the north; the East Rongbuk glacier in the northeast; and the
Kangshung glacier in the east.
Climate
The climate of Mount
Everest is naturally extreme. In January, the coldest month, the summit
temperature averages about -36° C (about -33° F) and can drop as low as -60° C
(-76° F). In July, the warmest month, the average summit temperature is -19° C
(-2° F). At no time of the year does the temperature on the summit rise above
freezing. In winter and spring the prevailing westerly wind blows against the
peak and around the summit. Moisture-laden air rises from the south slopes of
the Himalayas and condenses into a white, pennant-shaped cloud pointing east;
this "flag cloud" sometimes enables climbers to predict storms. When the wind
reaches about 80 km/h (about 50 mph), the flag cloud is at a right angle to the
peak. When the wind is weaker, the cloud tilts up; when it is stronger, the flag
tilts down.
From June through September the mountain is in the grip of the Indian
monsoon, during which wind and precipitation blow in from the Indian Ocean.
Masses of clouds and violent snowstorms are common during this time. From
November to February, in the dead of winter, the global southwest-flowing jet
stream moves in from the north, beating the summit with winds of hurricane force
that may reach more than 285 km/h (177 mph). Even during the pre- and
post-monsoon climbing seasons, strong winds may arise suddenly. When such storms
develop, sand and small stones carried aloft, as well as beating snow and ice,
pose problems for climbers.
Precipitation falls mostly during the monsoon season, while winter storms
between December and March account for the rest. Unexpected storms, however, can
drop up to 3 m (10 ft) of snow on unsuspecting climbers and mountain hikers.
Base Camp, which serves as a resting area and base of operations for
climbers organizing their attempts for the summit, is located on the Khumbu
glacier at an elevation of 5300 m (17,400 ft); it receives an average of 450 mm
(18 in) of precipitation a year.
Climbing Mount Everest
Traditionally, the people who
live near Mount Everest have revered the mountains of the Himalayas and imagined
them as the homes of the gods. Because the peaks were considered sacred, no
local people scaled them before the early 1900s. However, when foreign
expeditions brought tourist dollars and Western ideas to the area, people of the
Sherpa ethnic group began to serve as high-altitude porters for them. Because
Nepal had been closed to foreigners since the early 1800s, all pre-World War II
(1939-1945) Everest expeditions were forced to recruit Sherpa porters from
Darjiling (Darjeeling), India, then circle through Tibet and approach Everest
from the north.
In 1913 British explorer John Noel sneaked into Tibet, which was also closed
at the time, and made a preliminary survey of the mountain's northern
approaches, where the topography is less varied than on the southern side. In
1921 the British began a major exploration of the north side of the mountain,
led by George Leigh Mallory. Mallory's expedition, and another that took place
soon afterward, were unable to overcome strong winds, avalanches, and other
hazards to reach the summit. In 1924 a third British expedition resulted in the
disappearance of Mallory and a climbing companion only 240 m (800 ft) from the
summit. More attempts were made throughout the 1930s and into the 1940s. Then,
with the conquest of Tibet by China in the early 1950s, the region was closed to
foreigners again and the northern approaches to the mountain were sealed off.
In 1950, the year
after Nepal opened to foreigners, W. H. Tilman and C. Houston made the first
ascent from the south and became the first people to see into the Khumbu cirque
(a steep basin at the head of a mountain valley). A number of attempts to reach
the mountain's summit followed in the early 1950s. In 1952 the Swiss almost
succeeded in climbing the mountain from the South Col, which is a major pass
between the Everest and Lhotse peaks and is now the most popular climbing route
to the summit. On May 29, 1953, under the tenth British expedition flag and the
leadership of John Hunt, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay
successfully completed the first ascent of Mount Everest via the South Col.
Several expeditions have since followed. In 1975 Junko Tabei of Japan became the
first woman to summit Mount Everest. Later, in 1978, Austrians Reinhold Messner
and Peter Habeler established a new and rigorous standard by climbing to the
summit without the use of supplemental oxygen, which, because of the thin air at
Everest's high altitude, is important for the energy, health, and thinking
skills of the climbers. In 1991 Sherpas, who had carried the supplies for so
many foreigners up Mount Everest, completed their own successful expedition to
the summit. By the mid-1990s, 4000 people had attempted to climb Everest-660 of
them successfully reached the summit and more than 140 of them died trying.
The difficulties of climbing Mount Everest are legendary. Massive snow and
ice avalanches are a constant threat to all expeditions. The avalanches thunder
off the peaks repeatedly, sometimes burying valleys, glaciers, and climbing
routes. Camps are chosen to avoid known avalanche paths, and climbers who make
ascents through avalanche terrain try to cross at times when the weather is most
appropriate. Hurricane-force winds are a well-known hazard on Everest, and many
people have been endangered or killed when their tents collapsed or were ripped
to shreds by the gales. Hypothermia, the dramatic loss of body heat, is also a
major and debilitating problem in this region of high winds and low
temperatures.
Another hazard facing Everest climbers is the famous Khumbu icefall, which
is located not far above Base Camp and is caused by the rapid movement of the
Khumbu glacier over the steep rock underneath. The movement breaks the ice into
sérac (large, pointed masses of ice) cliffs and columns separated by huge
crevasses, and causes repeated ice falls across the route between Base CaCmp and
Camp I. Many people have died in this area. Exposed crevasses may be easy to
avoid, but those buried under snow can form treacherous snow bridges through
which unwary climbers can fall.
The standard climb of Mount Everest from the south side ascends the Khumbu
glacier to Base Camp at about 5400 m (17,600 ft). Typical expeditions use four
camps above Base Camp; these camps give the climbers an opportunity to rest and
acclimate (adapt) to the high altitude. The route from Base Camp through the
great Khumbu icefall up to Camp I at 6000 m (19,700 ft) is difficult and
dangerous; it usually takes one to three weeks to establish because supplies
must be carried up the mountain in several separate trips. Once Camp II, at 6500
m (21,350 ft), has been supplied in the same manner using both Base Camp and
Camp I as bases, climbers typically break down Base Camp and make the trek from
there to Camp II in one continuous effort. Once acclimatized, the climbers can
make the move to Camp II in five to six hours. Camp III is then established near
the cirque of the Khumbu glacier. The route up the cirque headwall from Camp III
to the South Col and Camp IV at 8000 m (26,200 ft) is highly strenuous and takes
about four to eight hours. The South Col is a cold, windy, and desolate place of
rocks, snow slabs, littered empty oxygen bottles, and other trash.
From the South Col to the summit is a climb of only about 900 vertical m
(about 3000 vertical ft), although its fierce exposure to adverse weather and
steep drop-offs poses many challenges. The section between 8530 m (28,000 ft)
and the South Summit at 8750 m (28,700 ft) is particularly treacherous because
of the steepness and unstable snow. From the South Summit there remains another
90 vertical m (300 vertical ft) along a terrifying knife-edged ridge. The
exposure is extreme, with the possibility of huge vertical drops into Tibet on
the right and down the southwest face on the left. A little more than 30
vertical m (100 vertical ft) from the summit is a 12-m (40-ft) chimney across a
rock cliff known as the Hillary Step; this is one of the greatest technical
challenges of the climb. |
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